Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 10:23:04
From: RONALDJ ROVANSEK
Subject: moving plants in the summer

>Bill, I have moved many plants in the summer,
and it can be done without
>too many problems. The most important thing in
moving plants is to keep a
>ball of soil in contact with the roots and not to let
the roots dry out. A
>plant's roots develop very intimate contact with
the soil, and if the soil
>around the roots is removed or disturbed, this
contact is broken. Also,
>many plants have roots that are damaged very
easily by drying, which
>can take only a few minutes in the summer. I try
to move each plant with
>a ball of soil intact around the roots. I cut a block
of soil with the
plant at
>the center using a shovel. Generally I am limited
to the size of block that
>can be produced by cutting each of four sides
with a regular garden
>shovel, since any larger size is hard to lift and
move without breaking
>apart. This size is usually large enough for most
perennials, even larger
>specimens. Cut the block on all sides before you
try to lift it. It is
important
>to cut any roots either from your plant or other
nearby plants, since
>these will pull apart the soil ball as you try to
move it. Roots from your
>plant that become free of soil are not worth
worrying about if you have
>other roots still in a soil block. Of course loose
roots are better than no
>roots if you cannot extract a block of soil. Once
the block becomes loose
>in the hole try to slide your shovel underneath and
cut any roots that
>leave the lower part of your soil block - in general
take your time cutting a
>block of soil before you try to lift it. Once you
have cut a block, lift
it and
>put it immediately in a box or pot, and pack it
with soil, potting soil,
>compost, wet leaves, or some such material that
will hold it still and keep
>the edges moist. If you cannot replant within a
few hours it is best to pot
>the plant with soil or compost. This seems like
extra work, but I find it is
>worth the effort. Once a plant is potted you can
wait until you have time
>to replant it properly. If you are moving a lot of
plants you can temporarily
>put the root balls in bags - plastic grocery bags
are about the right size
>and definitely the right price. I recommend double
bagging and tying the
>handles at the top. As with any container, be
careful to keep the soil ball
>in one piece, and if you can, plant immediately
any plant whose soil ball
>breaks.
>
>Before you attempt to dig any plant you should
cut it back. I leave only 12
>or 18 inches of branches on a plant - often less
with salvias, cupheas,
>firespike, malvaviscus and most other perennials,
which regrow very
>quickly. Too many leaves will create excess
transpiration and dry the
>plant, too many branches will make it harder to
dig, and the plant will
>quickly regrow anyway, so cut back with
abandon. This goes for all
>hummingbird plants - the holly should be cut
back somewhat less
>severely, since it will recover a little more slowly.
In general the holly
will
>be harder to move and less likely to survive a
move. It is best to work in
>the evening when it will be a little cooler. The
garden soil should be
>modestly moist - water a day or two in advance if
necessary, since
>watering right before you work will mean muddy
surface and still dry
>deep soil.
>
>Ron Rovansek